Konya, inside the a whirl of their own

We t is the heart regarding Poultry. Konya, an area out of so many souls, squats smack in the center of Anatolia’s insane simple, surrounded by vakre Libanesisk kvinner open, unlimited prairie. Turkey’s very culturally old-fashioned city, Konya looks to start with is a place regarding strict headscarves and you will foreboding beards, out-of ostentatiously observed pieties and you will taboo beers. However, uncovering Konya is simple – to possess here, in the middle of dated city, in the tomb of turquoise tiles, are Jelaluddin Rumi.

Rumi is just one of the world’s very realize poets. Through the their lifestyle, and since his death in 1273, pilgrims have come to help you Konya. Now, Rumi’s tomb try Turkey’s next really-went to travelers destination pursuing the Topkapi Castle into the Istanbul. Rumi is a mystical, an excellent Sufi saint whom enjoyed most of the religions, and whoever very own faith are like. Their supporters carry out (whilst still being manage) reduce by themselves in the hypnotic trance and you will dancing, both spinning for example tops from day to night.

There is certainly a giant, epic the new municipal auditorium where this sensitive spinning person ballet are did, and you will any number of pleasant shiny-eyed mystics in carpet sites, cafes and you may medieval bazaars, all the happy so you can ask one a personal zikhr

This type of whirling dervishes are actually new icon off Turkey’s tourism techniques, and you may sip beverage on your own Istanbul hotel lobby viewing certain terrible bloke from inside the a high beige felt cap whirling getting the activity. Towards the real deal, even if, been heree so you’re able to Konya therefore arrive at Turkey’s soul. Within the Rumi’s words:

«Anyone who you might be, come Even if you is A keen infidel, a great pagan, or an excellent fireworshipper, been Our very own brotherhood is not one of despair you provides broken Your own vows off repentance a hundred minutes, been.»

Every year while the 1983, I was upcoming for the one or two billion-or-thus visitors exactly who visit Konya a year. Most are Turkish, while most Iranians (which claim Rumi since their own, given that the guy composed within their language and you may was born in east Persia) and additionally result in the pilgrimage.

As opposed to and work out Konya a halt to your a bus concert tour, I will suggest existence for a few days, soaking up an impression, restaurants several of Turkey’s top mutton, watching their best Seljuk structures and you will – perhaps – shedding crazy about Rumi. You could fly when you look at the inexpensively out-of Istanbul, that additionally there is a beneficial scruffy, atmospheric illustrate, or are available by-road. Konya is within effortless visited of cave dwellers and carpeting manufacturers of Cappadocia.

Rumi turned up right here while the a good boy, when Konya had come a region for 2,000 age. It had been mainly based because of the Hittites, who were been successful by the Phrygians, then your Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the kings from Pergamon and also the Romans, just who known as put Iconium. New orleans saints Paul and you will Barnabus one another preached right here, however, of the 1071 the latest Seljuks, an effective Turcoman tribe, was basically responsible, in addition to their architectural legacy endures.

The Karatay Medrese out-of 1251 are a masterpiece out of embellished tiling and harmonious domes. It is today the Art gallery out-of Ceramic tiles and you may Ceramics, whose content retain the vibrancy and punch that they had whenever first fired. Close by, the fresh Ince Minarali Medrese is starting to become the Art gallery away from Brick and you will Timber Carving, and is a lot less lifeless than just You will find made it voice. Both of these property whet urge for food to find the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, and also the magnificent Sahip Ata mosque: rather than a lot of the fresh Muslim industry, from inside the Chicken you’re motivated to visit mosques, whatever the religious choice.

At junction of dated city and its ugly the fresh neighbor ‘s the Alaaddin mosque, the fresh city’s vantage point, whoever breathtaking ebony pulpit and sensitive and painful prayer-niche are from 1155 (the cutting-edge are completed in 1221). The fresh new boulevard radiating from here brings one to Rumi’s tomb, where far more afterwards. Rumi may Turks because Mevlana (new Sainted You to), and today Konya is within thrall to Mevlanamania.

Once i earliest showed up, Mevlana’s followers, new Mevlevi, was indeed a banned organization, tolerated just for the «folkloric dancing» and you will whirlings. Group meetings took place covertly, dishonestly.

I mentioned restaurants, too. Konya’s lamb-centric cuisine is superb. Etli ekmek is a long, narrow move-right up pizza pie pass on with delicately spiced mince, and Konya kebab try a lamb shank, most slow roasted and you may served for the a support from bread having a sweet purple onion. A is at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. Zero 5, +90 332 352 85 47), whoever soup and you may do-it-yourself yogurt was paradise-generated.

Therefore, perfectly given, in accordance with of several glasses of sweet tannic beverage in you, create your cure for Rumi’s tomb. You get in on the awestruck, brand new curious as well as the fervent. A mysterious twinkly light takes on on the tombs from Rumi and you will their supporters. The new walls is embroidered having calligraphy, while the ceilings is actually a kaleidoscope from incredibly performed arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is included for the significantly padded cloth regarding gold, and you may generally seems to shine light and you may comfort and you will mercy.

Are all went, getting the following is like

A number of their fellow pilgrims will realize Korans, and others Rumi’s poetry. Very capture photographs, while this is strictly forbidden. You will find individuals who weep gently, and those who laugh aloud; those who meditate from day to night, and those who rush because of.

Playing unofficially and you may insinuating by itself into the awareness is the ney, an effective reed flute. It may sound particularly breathy air, but is actually the sound of flames, and therefore rises and you will drops inside us. This isn’t specific sullen spiritual moaning, although voice out-of yearning, out of communion, of cardiovascular system. You may have they – it is heart musical, therefore very provides you with. So become.

Turkish Air companies (020-7471 6666) flies so you can Konya through Istanbul from Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and you may Manchester, out-of ?219 rtn inc taxation. Istanbul to Konya from the railway will cost you throughout ?24 return, or about ?thirty six come back from the coach. Hotel Balikcilar keeps bedroom or around ?70 (and just have provides cool drinks). Hotel Dergah (+90 332 351 76 61) rooms as much as ?20. Seats to see the latest whirling dervishes is actually clear of the fresh new subscribers workplace, trailing Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum in the SeleneTour (+90 532 564 9192, ) organizes personal spinning and zikhr away from ?30pp.

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